Molyneux of 5 rue Royale, Paris. Couture house, established in 1919 by Edward Molyneux, Irish origins, London-born designer who trained at Lucile Ltd. First 20th century British couturier, working in Paris to be able to impose the British clothing taste, sober, classic fashions that were very successful.
Edward Molyneux retired in 1967 and died in 1974.
Fodor's Europe, 1954:
Edward Molyneux was a fashion designer in the early part of the 20th century. His first love was painting, but his true artistry quickly turned to fashion when he won a design contest sponsored by the heralded veteran fashion designer, Lady Lucille Duff-Gordon. Lucille, impressed by the work of such a young and talented man, subsequently gave him a job at her couture house.
The ravages of war halted dress designs for Molyneux and Molyneux served as a captain in the first World War. Unfortunately in 1918, he became wounded and lost an eye during the fighting. After the war he returned to Paris and in 1919, with the help of friends, opened his own house at 14, rue Royale. It may be said that because of his loss of eyesight, he disliked the use of excessive decoration and preferred simplicity and fluid lines over the fussiness of Lucille‘s designs. His designs had ‘a thoroughly British upper-class restraint.’
Captain Molyneux also designed lingerie and hats and commissioned perfumes, such as Numero Cinq, Le Chic and Fete de Molyneux. Captain Molyneux was also a great believer in the good luck of number five. His rapidly successful business was run from No. 5, Rue Royale and two of his best known perfumes were to be called "Numero Cinq" and "Rue Royale".
He opened new branches of his salons in Monte Carlo, Cannes, Biarritz and London. His rue Royale shop was all pearl gray, including the dresses of the vendeuses— the only house that imposed a uniform.
Captain Molyneux also designed lingerie and hats and commissioned perfumes, such as Numero Cinq, Le Chic and Fete de Molyneux. Captain Molyneux was also a great believer in the good luck of number five. His rapidly successful business was run from No. 5, Rue Royale and two of his best known perfumes were to be called "Numero Cinq" and "Rue Royale".
He opened new branches of his salons in Monte Carlo, Cannes, Biarritz and London. His rue Royale shop was all pearl gray, including the dresses of the vendeuses— the only house that imposed a uniform.
The House of Molyneux introduced three perfumes in 1925, all with names associated with their rue Royale address:
- Parfum 3 was named after Maxim's restaurant
- Parfum 14 was named after Molyneux 's previous address
- Le Numero Cinq was named after current address. Curiously the perfume was sold in the USA as Le Parfum Connu, because Chanel had introduced her Parfum No. 5 in 1921.
The beautiful white floral perfume Fete was originally launched in 1927, it was followed by Le Chic de Molyneux, a fruity floral chypre perfume launched in 1928. The mixed floral perfume Vogue was launched in 1929.
Femme, 1950:
"Everyone knows Molyneux No. 5 and many women use it because it has the curious privilege of harmonizing with all skin tones. We can therefore choose it without fail and we remain faithful to it; unless you want to try Magnificence, ideal for furs, deep and warm evening scent. Le Chic, on the contrary, is a perfume for the day, intended more for dark-haired women, while Vivre, synonymous with cheerfulness, goes well with blonde complexions."
In 1964, Captain Edward Molyneux announced that he would reopen his atelier at 5 Rue Royale (right next to Maxim's at No. 3) after a fifteen-year lapse. He spent the majority of those years painting, but when he became bored, he decided to come back to fashion. Molyneux closed in 1950 because of eye trouble (he felt his other eye was losing sight).
Edward Molyneux retired in 1967 and died in 1974.
The Molyneux perfume license has changed hands several times.
By 1978, Sanofi SA, a French pharmaceutical company, acquired Parfums Jean Couturier, Parfums Molyneux, Roger et Gallet, Farina, Stendhal and Yves Rocher. Les Parfums Molyneux then was part of Sanofi Group.
In June 1987, Sanofi increased its share in the international perfume market through the acquisition of Jacqueline Cochran, whose lines included Geoffrey Beene's Grey Flannel and Bowling Green, and the rights to distribute the Nina Ricci lines in the United States.
In 1988, acquired Fendi Profumi SpA and Florbath Profumi di Parma SpA. Sanofi's acquisition of these two firms included creation workshops and manufacturing facilities located in Parma, Italy. These companies were licensed to create and manufacture perfumes of the fashion houses Fendi and Krizia, whose current brands at that time included Fendi, K de Krizia, Krizia Uomo and Teatro alla Scala. Those luxury perfumes were distributed primarily in exclusive department stores in the United States and abroad.
Molyneux/Parfums Quartz, split from couture house in 1990 when nephew assumed control.
Molyneux/Parfums Quartz launched the following fragrances: Lord de Molyneux, I Love You, Initiation, Le Chic, Lord, Modern Quartz, Modern Quartz Men, Quartz Modern pour Homme, Molyneux Quartz, Quartz Addiction, Quartz Je T’aime, Quartz pour Homme.
In 1992, Sanofi sold Florbath, the company making Krizia fragrances, and Fendi Profumi to the German company Benckiser, and its Molyneux range to the French Cosmetiques et Parfums de France (CPF) group.
Jean Philippe acquired Inter Parfums in 1991 which then became its French fragrance subsidiary. In 1993, Inter Parfums S.A., acquired the license and inventory of the Ombre Rose.
In 1994, Inter Parfums SA as subsidiary of Jean Philippe Fragrances Inc. completed the acquisition of the trademarks of Parfums Molyneux and Parfums Weil from Cosmetiques et Parfums de France.
In 1994 Inter Parfums acquired trademarks for a variety of fragrances from Parfums Molyneux and Parfums Weil and Jean Philippe bought the worldwide trademark for Intimate and Chaz from Revlon.
In April 1997, Jean Philippe (Inter Parfums) fragrances and cosmetics operations, still owned the Intimate, Jordache, Ombre Rose, Burberry, Chaz, Parfums Molyneux and Parfums Weil fragrance lines.
By 2010, Inter Parfums, Inc., formerly Jean Philippe Fragrances, develops manufactures and distributes a variety of perfumes to department stores, wholesalers, and drug stores, as well as personal care products and cosmetics. The company's brands included Burberry, Christian Lacroix, Celine, Diane Von Furstenberg, Molyneux, Paul Smith, ST Dupont and FUBU. The French subsidiary is Inter Parfums, SA.
As of 2012 Parfums Molyneux's license was held by Parfums Berdoues.
Fodor's Europe, 1954:
"Molyneux. "Chic"— for brunettes, men or women; "le Numero Cinq" —fresh and clean, for everyone; "Magnificence"— tenacious, sumptuous with furs; "Rue Royale"— for young red-heads; "Vivre"— blondes."
Fodor's Europe, 1967:
"Molyneux, "No. 5." "Rue Royale" (for teenagers)"
Fete was my favorite. I wish I could still buy it.
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