Le Numero Cinq by Molyneux c1921

Le Numéro Cinq by Molyneux, launched in 1921 and created by Jacques Vogel, embodies the elegance and modernity of its time. The name itself, Le Numéro Cinq, translates from French as "The Number Five." It’s no coincidence that this number held special significance for both Molyneux and Coco Chanel, as it was regarded as a symbol of luck, mystery, and significance in the fashion world. The use of "Cinq" also echoes the trend of the 1920s, where numbers became fashionable in naming fragrances, particularly the number five, which symbolized innovation and modernity. For Molyneux, it was not only a nod to his lucky number but also a bold statement to keep pace with Chanel’s iconic No. 5, launched in the same year.

The story behind Le Numéro Cinq evokes a sense of camaraderie and competition in the world of haute couture. According to perfume historian Luca Turin, Molyneux and Chanel, friends and contemporaries, had conceived the idea of releasing fragrances named after the number five on the same day, symbolizing a shared ethos of sophistication and boldness. The 1920s saw a wave of perfumes with numeric names—Le Double Cinq by Alice Choquet, Cinque, and Triple Cinque, both by Henri Bendel —further showcasing the allure of numbers in marketing fragrances as timeless and universal. Molyneux’s Le Numéro Cinq stood as an embodiment of this trend, marking its place in the annals of perfumery with an air of refinement and simplicity.

The name Le Numéro Cinq conjures images of art deco Paris, a city filled with the allure of modernity, where women sought to express their newfound freedom through fashion and fragrance. The number five evokes balance, structure, and harmony, feelings that a fragrance named Le Numéro Cinq would likely seek to embody. In scent, this number could be interpreted as an equilibrium of notes—neither too bold nor too understated, but perfectly poised. It is a fragrance that invites women to explore their duality: strong yet graceful, independent yet sensual. The name itself hints at something both mysterious and straightforward, leaving a lasting impression through its simplicity.

c1930 ad

The narrative surrounding Le Numéro Cinq by Molyneux suggests a fascinating intersection of creativity and competition in the world of perfumery. While some accounts claim that Molyneux's version of a Number Five perfume was released years ahead of Chanel's iconic No. 5, others, such as Nigel Groom, contend that Molyneux had indeed introduced several numbered perfumes, including the notable Le Numéro Cinq, as early as 1925. This timing places Molyneux squarely within the trend of naming perfumes after numbers—a practice that was gaining traction in the 1920s as fragrance houses sought to capture the essence of modernity and innovation.

During this vibrant decade, the allure of numerical nomenclature was evident, with numerous perfumeries jumping on the bandwagon to create their own interpretations of a "Number Five." Besides Alice Choquet and Henri Bendel, other houses such as Forvil, Lamballe, Gaverine, Fragonard, Claire, and Rimmel all contributed to this phenomenon, showcasing how the simple act of assigning a number to a fragrance could evoke a sense of sophistication and exclusivity. The excitement around these numbered perfumes reflected a broader cultural fascination with progress and modern living, capturing the imagination of consumers eager to express their individuality through scent.

However, the competitive landscape shifted dramatically in 1927 when Chanel took legal action over copyright issues, leading to significant changes for Molyneux's Le Numéro Cinq. In response to the legal pressure, the perfume was rebranded as Le Parfum Connu, translating to "The Known Perfume." This renaming represented not just a clever workaround to legal troubles but also a testament to the fragrance's enduring appeal and recognition in the market. Interestingly, some labels of the perfume featured a design that resembled the letter "G," which, upon closer inspection, revealed itself to be an upside-down number five—a subtle nod to its heritage while maintaining a degree of anonymity in the face of legal constraints.

This evolution of Le Numéro Cinq into Le Parfum Connu is emblematic of the dynamic and often tumultuous nature of the perfume industry during the 1920s, where creativity and commerce intertwined, and branding strategies were critical to success. Molyneux's journey with this fragrance not only reflects his artistic vision but also the broader narrative of the era—a time when fragrance was becoming an essential accessory for the modern woman, woven into the fabric of her identity and lifestyle. The history of Le Numéro Cinq serves as a reminder of the intricate dance between innovation, competition, and legal considerations in the world of haute couture and perfumery.

When Le Numéro Cinq was introduced in the 1920s, it arrived during a time of transformation for women. The flapper era was in full swing, marked by short hair, rebellious fashion, and the pursuit of personal freedom. Perfumes, like fashion, became an extension of the modern woman’s identity—bold, daring, and progressive. A fragrance called Le Numéro Cinq would have resonated deeply with women of that era, who were embracing new roles in society and rejecting the rigid norms of the past. To wear Le Numéro Cinq would have been a declaration of modernity, sophistication, and empowerment. It was a scent for the avant-garde woman, unafraid to take risks and command attention.

Edward Henry Molyneux, a modernist at heart, reflected this spirit in his creations, both in fashion and perfumery. His Parisian salon, operating from 1919 until 1950, was known for its refined yet forward-thinking approach to couture, attracting socially and culturally advanced clientele. Molyneux played with the boundaries of classic elegance while infusing a modernist aesthetic, making his designs and fragrances timeless. Le Numéro Cinq was not just a fragrance—it was a statement of style and a reflection of the refined, avant-garde vision that Molyneux championed in a world that was rapidly evolving.

 

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Le Numero Cinq is classified as a floral fruity chypre fragrance for women. It begins with aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, peach, hyacinth, jonquil and lily of the valley layered over rose, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang and carnation, resting on a base of musk, castoreum, incense, amber and sandalwood.

• Top notes: white hyacinth, jonquil, aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, peach, lily of the valley, genet
• Middle notes: violet, narcissus, rose, jasmine, Florentine iris, plum, carnation, Bourbon Island ylang ylang, orange blossom
• Base notes: musk, cloves, incense, castoreum, labdanum, orris, Singapore patchouli, ambergris  

Theatre, 1930:

"Molyneux's "Parfum Inconnu" Introduced abroad as "Le Numero Cinq", is duplicating here the vogue it enjoys in Paris. It is priced at $10 the ounce, up to $300 for huge luxury bottles of this sophisticated scent ."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"No. 5 by Molyneux: fresh, fruity and subtle. Dominant note: bergamot, orange blossom, essence of exotic fruit. Excellent in fabrics, velvets, woollens. Unique in its kind, could never be copied. Created a fashion in perfumes. For redheads.""

La Femme Chic, 1945:

Similarly, Cinq de Molyneux complements the range of creations from this house through an intermediary. What sets it apart is the addition of a warm and heady quality to the freshness found in some of its renowned predecessors, enhancing its distinctive character without detracting from it.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Le Numero Cinq de Molyneux: The number 5 was the lucky number for Captain Molyneux also born a 5 and whose fashion house is at number 5 rue Royale. But we could add that this complete perfume satisfies our 5 senses and that 5 different scents swirl into one: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, sandalwood and patchouli.This delicious blend harmonizes with all complexions, it is quite fresh and subtle at first but it rounds out by heating up in contact with the epidermis."

Combat, 1953:

"Le Numero Cinq by Molyneux - Castoreum, amber and iris give a new accent to the classic trio of couturier perfumes: rose, jasmine and lily of the valley. How to locate your climate without bias? A dance between the two wars. Pretty women in shirt dresses that don't hide much, helmets up to their eyes and watched by Van Dongen, abandon themselves to the indifferent arms of Argentine gigolos. Petit-gris and dazzling clips. For me, this luxury embalms the Number Five.?"

Fodor's Europe, 1954:

"Molyneux. "Chic"— for brunettes, men or women; "le Numero Cinq" —fresh and clean, for everyone; "Magnificence"— tenacious, sumptuous with furs; "Rue Royale"— for young redheads; "Vivre"— blondes."

Combat, 1955:

"Numero Cinq (perfumed cologne) by Molyneux - a dance hall from the inter-war period. Pretty women in shirt dresses who don't hide much, helmeted up to their eyes and watched by Van Dongen abandon themselves in the indifferent arms of the Argentinian gigolos. Beneath the squirrel and the pearls, they smell of castoreum, amber and iris, which give a unique accent to the fateful trio: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley. Diluted in a water of cologne, this famous perfume installs the pleasures of winter in the heart of summer."

Scent Profile:

Le Numero Cinq unfolds like a luxurious tapestry of scent, revealing its intricate layers with each breath. The top notes present an effervescent burst of aldehydes, creating an airy, almost sparkling sensation that fills the air with a sense of elegance and sophistication. As you inhale deeply, the brightness of bergamot dances playfully, mingling with the soft sweetness of ripe peach. 

The enchanting scent of white hyacinth emerges, fresh and green, accompanied by the delicate, powdery essence of jonquil and the crispness of lily of the valley, evoking the feeling of a sunlit garden in full bloom. These initial impressions are further enriched by the warm embrace of genet, which adds a subtle honeyed undertone that rounds out this vibrant introduction.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal a sumptuous bouquet that envelops you in its lushness. The velvety richness of rose and the intoxicating allure of jasmine take center stage, their opulent floral notes intermingling with the fruity plum and the aromatic softness of violet. 

The delicate petals of orange blossom and the spicy sweetness of carnation add depth and complexity, while Bourbon Island ylang-ylang introduces a creamy, tropical richness that enhances the overall sophistication of the fragrance. Each inhalation invites you deeper into this floral reverie, creating an impression of effortless femininity.

Finally, the base notes provide a grounding warmth that lingers long after the initial freshness has faded. The musk lends a sensual, animalistic quality that feels both inviting and intimate. Castoreum adds a unique, leathery richness, while the smoky undertones of incense evoke an aura of mystique and depth. 

The golden warmth of amber envelops the skin, creating a soft, resinous sweetness that is both comforting and seductive. Sandalwood's creamy, woody aroma weaves through the composition, offering a harmonious balance to the complex layers above it. Together, these base notes create a lasting impression, leaving a trail of elegance that captivates the senses and lingers in memory.

Bottles:

1 oz parfum, red leather purse case, c1920s-1930s, photo from worthpoint.

1/2 oz parfum, original box, c1920s-1940s. Le Parfum Connu. Photo from worthpoint.

1 oz parfum, original box, c1940s-1960s. Photo from worthpoint.

Fluted Bottles:

This fluted, twelve sided cylindrical bottle below was used in the 1930s-1940s. Notice how the stopper continues the fluting.  

Bottle stands 3 1/4" tall, c1930s-1940s. photo from worthpoint.

c1950s-1960s, 9ml parfum. Photo from worthpoint.

c1950s-1960s, 1/6 oz parfum bottle. Photo from worthpoint.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The exportation of Le Numero Cinq to the United States faced significant disruption during World War II, as the tumultuous global climate hindered trade and the flow of luxury goods. This halt in availability left many American consumers yearning for the distinctive fragrance that had once graced their vanity tables, its absence felt acutely amidst the backdrop of wartime scarcity. It wasn't until 1948, three years after the war's conclusion, that Le Numero Cinq made its long-awaited return to American shores. This reintroduction marked a revival of interest in the perfume, which had remained a symbol of elegance and sophistication throughout the war years.

Despite its reentry into the market, Le Numero Cinq struggled to maintain its presence in the rapidly evolving fragrance landscape of the late 1960s and early 1970s. During this period, the perfume industry witnessed a dramatic shift as new trends emerged and consumers began gravitating toward modern, bold scents that reflected the changing cultural landscape. Ultimately, Le Numero Cinq was discontinued, likely due to the overwhelming competition from these newer fragrances and shifting consumer preferences. The perfume, once a hallmark of luxury and refinement, faded into relative obscurity, leaving behind a legacy cherished by those who remembered its distinct bouquet and the artistry of Edward Henry Molyneux.