Quartz by Molyneux c1977

Quartz by Molyneux, launched in 1977 in collaboration with Sanofi, was created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Subrenat of Roure. The choice of the name "Quartz" evokes the natural beauty, clarity, and timelessness of the semi-precious stone. Derived from the German word quarz, this name is steeped in natural elegance and strength. Quartz, with its translucent and crystalline qualities, suggests purity, resilience, and a connection to the earth. In scent, the name Quartz could be interpreted as a fragrance that is both enduring and multifaceted—crisp, clean, and refined with layers that reveal different facets as it unfolds.

As a floral-fruity-woody fragrance, Quartz begins with a burst of fruity, green notes that hint at vitality and freshness, reminiscent of the natural world. The opening is bright with the zest of grapefruit and the green tang of tangerine, setting a tone of vivacity and energy. This is balanced by a floral heart, where fruit blends seamlessly with blooms, creating an aura of femininity and grace. As the fragrance dries down, it rests on a mossy, powdery base, evoking the scent of crumpled leaves and earth, grounding the wearer in nature. The inclusion of North American essences adds a modern twist, subtly suggesting a cosmopolitan woman who is both connected to nature and in tune with contemporary trends.

Women of the 1970s would have found a perfume named Quartz intriguing and aspirational. The 1970s were a time of exploration and freedom, with women embracing new roles in society while maintaining a strong sense of individuality. Quartz, with its natural and timeless associations, would have resonated with women seeking a fragrance that embodied both strength and beauty. In a time when chypres, florals, and aldehydic perfumes dominated the market, the floral-fruity-woody blend of Quartz stood out for its modern and dynamic structure. The fragrance embraced the growing trend of green and fruity scents that offered a fresh alternative to the heavier, more opulent perfumes of previous decades.

In the context of the perfume market in 1977, Quartz was both timely and unique. While many fragrances of the era leaned toward either bold, heady compositions or delicate florals, Quartz struck a balance between both worlds. It aligned with the decade’s exploration of natural ingredients and environmental consciousness while offering a sophisticated, wearable scent for the modern woman. Its combination of fruity brightness, floral elegance, and a grounding, earthy base made Quartz a versatile fragrance that captured the spirit of the time—natural yet luxurious, energetic yet grounded, and always quietly elegant.

Fragrance Composition:

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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral-fruity-woody fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity green top, followed by a fruity floral heart, resting on a mossy, powdery base. The base is complete with crumpled leaves of North American essences. Fruity, green and flowering, combining green tangerine and the zest of grapefruit.

• Top notes: cassia, peach, hyacinth, lemon, Italian green mandarin, green tangerine, bergamot and grapefruit zest
• Middle notes: carnation, melon, orris, Florentine iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, wild honeysuckle and oriental rose
• Base notes: benzoin, musk, Virginian cedar, amber, Javan vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Tyrolean oakmoss absolute and Singapore patchouli

Scent Profile:

As I take in the first breath of Quartz, the top notes hit with an exhilarating burst of fruity, green vibrancy. There’s a sharp zing of grapefruit zest, like slicing into a ripe citrus fruit, the oils spritzing into the air with a freshness that is both tangy and slightly bitter. This is soon softened by the juicy sweetness of green tangerine and Italian green mandarin, which lend a bright, verdant crispness to the scent. Together, they capture the sensation of walking through a dewy orchard at dawn, the air rich with the scent of freshly peeled citrus and earth. 

A subtle hint of cassia lingers in the background, adding a touch of warm spiciness, while the smooth, velvety texture of peach emerges softly beneath, rounding out the tartness with its soft, juicy sweetness. Lemon and bergamot join the composition, adding layers of brightness, like sunlight filtering through leaves. There's an element of hyacinth in the mix, introducing a light floral sweetness that intertwines with the fruitiness, giving it a fresh, green quality, almost like spring in bloom.

As the top notes dissipate, the heart of Quartz begins to reveal itself—a lush, floral bouquet that feels both vibrant and feminine. Carnation, with its spicy, clove-like fragrance, stands out, bringing a slight warmth that contrasts beautifully with the freshness of the top notes. The scent of wild honeysuckle weaves through, a sweet, nectar-like aroma that feels delicate and intoxicating, as if I’ve brushed past a flowering vine on a sunlit afternoon. 

There’s a watery, dewy quality from the subtle melon, adding a sense of freshness to the floral heart. Lily of the valley follows, its scent pure and innocent, like tiny white bells ringing softly in a spring breeze. The more exotic oriental rose introduces a richer, more complex floral layer, its deep, slightly spicy sweetness intertwining with the powdery elegance of orris and Florentine iris. Together, they give the heart of the fragrance a soft, powdery warmth that feels luxurious and timeless. Meanwhile, jasmine adds a creamy, opulent floral richness, filling the air with a seductive depth.

As the floral notes settle, the base of Quartz gradually unfurls, grounding the fragrance with its earthy, woody warmth. There is a smooth, rich softness from the Mysore sandalwood, a creamy, almost milky woodiness that feels comforting and elegant. The scent of Tyrolean oakmoss absolute begins to emerge, bringing a damp, earthy greenness that evokes the feeling of mossy undergrowth, cool and slightly mineral, as if I’m walking through a lush forest. Virginian cedar introduces a dry, woody aspect, crisp and clean, with a hint of pencil shavings that adds depth to the composition. 

Meanwhile, amber warms everything with its resinous, honeyed glow, lending a sense of golden warmth that seems to radiate from the skin. The slightly smoky, grassy scent of Javan vetiver rises, adding a touch of spiciness and dryness to the earthy base. Finally, the Singapore patchouli adds a dark, earthy richness, grounding the fragrance with a deep, lingering warmth, while the smooth, animalic scent of musk melds everything together into a soft, powdery finish. 

There’s also the faint sweetness of benzoin, adding a balsamic quality that lingers like a warm, sweet breath. As the scent rests, the combination of green, woody, and earthy notes feels like the last whisper of a natural landscape, a memory of leaves and petals stirred by the wind, slowly fading into the skin.

Bottle:

Presented in a refined clear stylish bottle with a black cap designed by Serge Mansau in 1977. The bottles were produced in France by Pochet et du Courval.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Quartz has suffered from reformulation over the years and some of the original notes found in the first version are no longer present in the new formula.

• Top notes: cassia, peach, hyacinth
• Middle notes: carnation, melon, orris root, jasmine, rose and honeysuckle
• Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, cedar and patchouli

Scent Profile:

As I begin to experience the reformulated version of Quartz, the top notes greet me with a vibrant burst of cassia, which immediately brings a warm, spicy sweetness, almost like cinnamon but with a deeper, richer undertone. It adds a cozy, welcoming warmth to the fragrance, contrasted by the juicy softness of peach. The peach is ripe and succulent, filling the air with a velvety sweetness that softens the sharpness of the spice. 

There’s an added floral freshness from hyacinth, which brings a green, watery quality, as if its delicate petals are glistening with morning dew. The hyacinth lends the opening a light, airy floral sweetness that complements the warmth of the cassia and the fruitiness of the peach, creating a soft but energetic beginning, full of brightness and warmth.

As the top notes gradually fade, the heart of Quartz reveals a rich, complex floral bouquet. Carnation stands at the center, with its slightly spicy, clove-like scent, adding depth and a gentle heat to the composition. It feels bold yet soft, blending beautifully with the sweet, honeyed aroma of honeysuckle, which wraps around the carnation like a tender embrace. Melon introduces a refreshing, watery quality to the heart, adding a crisp, fruity contrast to the warmth of the carnation. 

There’s a softness from the orris root, which brings a powdery elegance to the blend, grounding the floral notes with a velvety smoothness. The rich, heady scent of jasmine soon follows, intoxicating with its creamy, opulent floral richness, while rose lends a classic, romantic sweetness, with a touch of depth and warmth. The combination of these florals creates a harmonious and balanced heart, where spicy and sweet, creamy and green, all intertwine in a vibrant dance.

As the floral heart begins to settle, the base of Quartz slowly unveils itself, offering a warm, sensual foundation that lingers on the skin. Sandalwood emerges first, with its creamy, smooth woodiness, bringing a sense of soft, almost milky comfort. It feels grounding, as if wrapping the wearer in a soft embrace. The warm, resinous glow of amber follows, adding a golden richness that feels both sweet and earthy, like the glow of sunlit honey. 

Musk introduces a soft, animalic warmth, blending seamlessly into the skin and giving the fragrance a sensual, velvety finish. There’s a sweetness and depth from benzoin, which adds a balsamic, slightly vanilla-like warmth to the base, enhancing the rich, creamy aspects of the sandalwood and amber. The cedar brings a dry, crisp woodiness, clean and sharp, with a faint hint of pencil shavings, while patchouli rounds everything out with its earthy, slightly smoky richness. The patchouli adds depth and a touch of mystery, anchoring the fragrance with its dark, resinous undertones.

Together, the base notes create a warm, woody, and slightly spicy finish, with a lingering sweetness that feels comforting and sophisticated, as if the fragrance has become one with the skin, radiating a quiet warmth that lasts throughout the day. Each note plays its part in this harmonious blend, combining the freshness of the top notes, the vibrancy of the florals, and the warmth of the base into a beautifully balanced scent that evolves gracefully over time.

Comparison of the Two Formulas:

The original formula of Quartz, launched in 1977, and its reformulation share a common identity but exhibit notable differences in their composition and sensory experience. Both versions belong to the floral-fruity-woody family, retaining the elegance that defined Quartz as a versatile fragrance. However, changes in the top and heart notes create different journeys through each scent, resulting in a distinct difference in how they unfold on the skin.

In both versions, the fragrance’s heart and base remain consistent. Jasmine, rose, and carnation are key players in both, creating a rich floral core that speaks to the timeless appeal of the fragrance. The base notes also share many of the same elements: sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, and patchouli. These shared components maintain the warm, sensual dry-down that has always been central to Quartz’s identity, offering a comforting and enveloping experience. The woody and resinous warmth remains a familiar part of both iterations, grounding the fragrance and giving it a lasting, elegant finish.

However, the differences begin to appear with the top notes. The original Quartz opened with a vibrant burst of citrus, thanks to the inclusion of bergamot, green tangerine, grapefruit zest, and lemon. This lively, zesty combination provided a bright, sparkling introduction to the fragrance, immediately catching attention with its crisp and refreshing character. It was paired with the soft green sweetness of peach and the floral freshness of hyacinth, adding complexity to the opening and creating a balance between fruitiness and freshness.

In contrast, the reformulated version of Quartz simplifies this introduction, opting for cassia, peach, and hyacinth. The result is a softer, warmer, and spicier opening, with cassia bringing a touch of heat and depth that was absent in the original’s brighter, citrus-heavy start. The absence of the citrus notes also means that the reformulation opens more gently, with a less immediate impact, offering a more mellow and comforting first impression rather than the bold liveliness of the original. This shift significantly alters the mood, making the reformulated Quartz feel warmer and more grounded from the very beginning.

The heart of both fragrances showcases florals, but their approach is also different. The original formula featured a fruity-floral heart, with melon, wild honeysuckle, and florentine iris adding sweetness and playfulness to the mix of traditional floral notes like jasmine, rose, and carnation. This gave the original Quartz a light, fresh, and slightly sweet personality in its middle phase, a delightful blend of floral opulence and fruity charm that was lively and youthful.

In the reformulated version, the heart focuses solely on floral notes, removing the fruity elements like melon and honeysuckle. The reformulation emphasizes more powdery, classic florals like orris root, rose, and jasmine, alongside the spiced nuances of carnation. This shift results in a more mature, refined floral bouquet that feels more traditional and elegant. The absence of the fruity notes also makes the heart less sweet and more focused on the floral richness, appealing to those who favor a more sophisticated, timeless fragrance profile.

The base notes remain largely the same across both versions, though regulatory changes surrounding the use of oakmoss might have affected the overall earthiness of the original formula. The reformulation may have toned down the mossy, green aspects that were prominent in the original due to the oakmoss, resulting in a warmer, creamier dry-down, particularly with sandalwood and benzoin taking on a more pronounced role. This means that the reformulated base feels smoother and more enveloping, whereas the original’s base likely had a crisper, earthier tone, especially with the use of Tyrolean oakmoss.

In summary, while the original Quartz presented a lively, fresh, and playful scent, dominated by vibrant citruses and sweet fruits, the reformulated version offers a warmer, spicier, and more refined experience. The reformulation focuses more on classical floral and woody elements, shifting the fragrance from its youthful exuberance toward a more sophisticated, mature profile. These differences reflect both the changing tastes in perfumery over time and the practical considerations of ingredient availability and regulation, resulting in two distinctive yet connected expressions of the same fragrance idea.