Le Chic de Molyneux, launched in 1928 and introduced to the United States by 1932, carries a name that perfectly captures the essence of the era in which it was created. The word "chic," borrowed from French, translates to stylish, elegant, or fashionable. It evokes imagery of sophisticated Parisian women, effortlessly poised and dressed in the latest couture. For Edward Henry Molyneux, a renowned British fashion designer with a Parisian salon, the choice of "Le Chic" was a reflection of his mastery in combining modernity with timeless elegance. The name alone would have conjured visions of refined glamour, appealing to women who aspired to embody this effortlessly stylish ideal.
"Le Chic" as a scent would likely be interpreted as a fragrance that exudes sophistication and grace, complementing the fashionable modern woman. The word "chic" suggests an understated allure—never ostentatious, but always polished and refined. Women of the time would have been drawn to the name, envisioning a perfume that enhances their natural elegance, something to wear with confidence, whether at a social event or simply for the satisfaction of feeling impeccably put together. A scent called "Le Chic" would have promised not only olfactory pleasure but also an elevation of one’s personal style and presence.
The late 1920s was a period of change and liberation for women. It was the era of the flapper, the modern woman who embraced short hair, shorter hemlines, and newfound independence. The launch of Le Chic came at a time when women were eager to express themselves more freely through fashion, beauty, and fragrance. Molyneux, known for his modernist approach to fashion, reflected this in his designs—clean lines, subtle yet luxurious details, and a forward-thinking aesthetic. His perfume, Le Chic, would have catered to the woman who wanted to project confidence and sophistication while still being in tune with contemporary trends.
In the context of the fashion and perfume landscape of the late 1920s and early 1930s, Le Chic stood out as a modern yet classic fragrance. The time period was one of innovation in perfumery, with the introduction of bold, complex compositions that appealed to a more liberated female audience. The rise of aldehydic perfumes, such as Chanel No. 5, brought a new level of sophistication to the market. Le Chic, created by perfumer Jacques Vogel, likely followed this trend, combining refinement with modernist sensibilities. It was a fragrance designed for the confident, fashionable woman who embraced Molyneux’s vision of understated, elegant modernity.
Molyneux's salon in Paris, in operation from 1919 until 1950, was a hub of couture innovation. He was a designer characterized by a sleek modernist approach, always seeking to refine and advance traditional styles. This spirit of cultural and social progression was embodied in Le Chic, which mirrored the transformation women were experiencing in their lives and style choices during this dynamic period in history.
c1930 ad
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women.
- Top notes: peach, cassis, raspberry, mango, bergamot and apricot
- Middle notes: violet, geranium, lily of the valley, jasmine, gardenia, rose, peony and Bourbon Island ylang ylang
- Base notes: leather, anise, orris, musk, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Singapore patchouli, vanilla, labdanum, tonka
The Mousse de Saxe accord begins with Flonol, an intricate orange flower base composed of six different ingredients, which brings a vibrant, yet delicate citrus sweetness to the top notes. This introduction is bolstered by Rose de Orient, an opulent and velvety rose accord, lending the fragrance a soft, romantic allure. Meanwhile, Methyl Ionone 100, a woody, powdery violet note, adds an earthy depth to the floral heart. The inclusion of De Laire Isobutyl Quinoline provides the distinctive leathery note that anchors the entire fragrance, balancing the sweetness of the flowers with a refined, almost animalic edge.
Further enhancing the composition is Vanillin, a synthesized vanilla that adds a creamy warmth, which rounds out the floral elements and deepens the fragrance’s appeal. Another rose accord pairs beautifully with Sandalwood, whose milky, woody notes evoke a sense of elegance and timelessness. Anisyl Acetate, with its sweet, spicy character reminiscent of star anise, adds complexity, while a special Geranium base introduces a green, slightly minty brightness that contrasts against the deeper elements of the perfume. Finally, Musk Xylol provides a soft, sensual finish, lingering on the skin and creating a lasting impression.
The result is a fragrance that is both fresh and heady, yet balanced by heavier, more subtle essences. The description of Le Chic as "seductive like its name" is fitting, as the perfume offers an alluring mix of delicate florals and rich, complex undertones. Its discreetly full-bodied nature makes it versatile—suitable for both men and women, but, as described in historical texts, it takes on a more exalted character when worn by brunettes. This likely refers to the fragrance’s ability to harmonize with darker, warmer skin tones, amplifying its intoxicating qualities.
When Le Chic was introduced in the late 1920s, its balance of Western and Eastern influences reflected the broader trends in perfumery at the time. The exotic notes, such as the leather-like Isobutyl Quinoline and the oriental rose, evoked a sense of mystery and far-off lands, while the soft florals and vanillic warmth grounded the fragrance in classic elegance. Women of the era, particularly those drawn to the sophisticated yet daring spirit of Molyneux’s designs, would have embraced Le Chic for its ability to convey both refinement and sensuality. It was a fragrance that mirrored the modern woman’s desire for individuality, luxury, and timeless appeal, making it as compelling today as it was upon its debut.
Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 115, 1931:
"Les Parfums de Molyneux of Paris, have introduced a new creation in Vivre, a perfume of outstanding merit, which, as our illustration shows, is presented in a manner simple yet attractive. Vivre is available in four sizes. Other Molyneux products include Vogue, Le Numero Cinq, Fete and Le Chic de Molyneux. Full particulars of these and other Molyneux fines are obtainable from the sole sale-; agent and distributor for the United Kingdom. GE Davies, 58 Newman Street, Oxford Street, London."
The New Yorker, 1932:
"Molyneux: Newest is Charm, a feminine bouquet. Le Chic and Fete still delighting smart young matrons."
Femme, 1946:
"While “Chic”, by Molyneux, poses as a seductress; a Parisian perfume for dark and active women, for modern women who know they are beautiful, but who want to remain simple, a bit in the note of "Rue Royale" with something more capricious, less dreamy. “Charme” is honestly for blonde."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Le Chic de Molyneux: Seductive like its name, it also has an indelible charm. Fresh and heady, it is balanced by heavy and subtle essences. Delicate and intoxicating, it finds its way halfway between the West and the Orient. It is a discreetly full-bodied perfume, for men and women, but which is more exalted in contact with a brunette."
Scent Profile:
As I experience Le Chic de Molyneux unfold on the skin, the initial burst of top notes envelops me in a lively, fruity embrace. The scent of ripe peach is the first to reach my senses, offering its juicy sweetness, tinged with a soft fuzziness that reminds me of summer orchards. A touch of cassis, or blackcurrant, cuts through this initial sweetness with a sharp, tangy edge that adds depth and vibrancy.
The tartness is balanced by the lush, succulent notes of raspberry and mango, which bring a tropical brightness to the bouquet, as if their golden juices are spilling from the fruit. There’s a whisper of bergamot weaving through these fruits, adding a citrusy, slightly bitter sparkle that gives the fragrance a sophisticated lift. The gentle, sun-warmed scent of apricot rounds out this medley with a smooth, honeyed richness.
As the top notes gently fade, the floral heart of Le Chic begins to bloom, revealing a lush garden of blossoms. The soft, powdery sweetness of violet intertwines with the bright, green-tinged sharpness of geranium, creating a delicate interplay between powder and spice. The lily of the valley emerges next, its fresh, watery floral scent like the soft rustle of petals in the morning dew.
Jasmine, always opulent and intoxicating, adds a creamy white floral touch, its deep sensuality mingling with the exotic fragrance of Bourbon Island ylang ylang, whose sweet, banana-like richness adds a velvety, tropical flair.
The rose is tender and dewy, evoking a bouquet of freshly cut blooms, while peony offers a more delicate, airy floral note, reminiscent of soft pink petals fluttering in the breeze. Gardenia grounds the floral heart with its rich, creamy sweetness, adding an almost tactile, plush texture to the fragrance.
As the fragrance settles into its base, the chypre character of Le Chic becomes more pronounced. A subtle leathery note begins to rise, courtesy of the leather accord, imbuing the fragrance with a smoky, slightly animalic richness. The sharp, spicy bite of anise adds an unexpected, invigorating touch, playing off the floral sweetness above.
The earthy, powdery scent of orris root, derived from the iris flower, lends a smooth, velvety quality, grounding the floral notes in something more tactile. Musk envelops everything in a warm, sensual embrace, adding a soft animalic undercurrent that lingers close to the skin.
The deeper, earthy notes of oakmoss soon take center stage, giving Le Chic its classic chypre structure. The mossy, forest-like scent is slightly damp and mineral, evoking the grounding stillness of nature. Mysore sandalwood lends its creamy, milky warmth, creating a comforting base that is both smooth and luxurious.
Singapore patchouli follows with its dark, earthy spiciness, adding complexity and depth, while vanilla smooths the edges with its warm, comforting sweetness. Finally, labdanum brings a resinous, ambery warmth, and tonka bean completes the composition with its rich, almond-like sweetness, providing a lasting, gourmand note that lingers on the skin.
The entirety of Le Chic de Molyneux is an elegant balance of fruity, floral, and earthy notes, each ingredient playing its part in an evocative, ever-unfolding narrative. From the bright, playful fruits to the sensual, grounding base, this fragrance captures both the youthful exuberance and the sophisticated allure of the Molyneux woman.
Bottles:
Le Chic de Molyneux was housed in a presentation that perfectly echoed the luxury and sophistication of the fragrance within. The bottle itself was crafted from heavy, chunky crystal, adding a tangible sense of weight and presence. Its rectangular shape was simple, yet commanding, evoking the streamlined elegance characteristic of the Art Deco era. The clean, sharp lines of the crystal allows light to play off its surface, giving it an understated but opulent glimmer, as though it were carved from a solid block of ice.
At the bottle’s neck sat a small inner stopper made of glass, a delicate detail that reflected the meticulous attention to preserving the fragrance's purity. Covering the stopper was a contrasting black over cap, sleek and minimalist, further enhancing the modernist aesthetic. This interplay between the transparent crystal and the black cap added a striking visual tension, a balance between clarity and mystery, much like the fragrance itself.
The luxurious bottle was housed in an equally refined presentation box. Covered with black glossy paper, the box exuded a sense of understated glamour. The title was elegantly rendered in white serigraphy, a minimalist yet bold contrast against the dark backdrop. This black-and-white design echoed the visual language of the late 1920s and early 1930s, drawing on the sophisticated, geometric influences of the Art Deco movement.
This chic and timeless presentation not only matched the name and character of the perfume but also made it a highly collectible item. The Art Deco design and high-quality materials of both the bottle and the box distinguished Le Chic de Molyneux from other fragrances of the time, making this particular packaging rarer and harder to find today. Its presentation embodied the elegance, modernity, and artistic flair of the Molyneux brand, a visual representation of the luxurious world the perfume invited you into.
The tester flacon has a dauber at the end of the glass stopper, this bottle stands 2.5" tall.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The original vintage formula of Le Chic de Molyneux was discontinued at an unknown date, though records show it was still available as late as 1941. This discontinuation left the iconic fragrance to linger in memory and on the vanities of those fortunate enough to have experienced it. For many decades, Le Chic lay dormant, its reputation as a classic floral chypre kept alive by connoisseurs and collectors of vintage perfumes.
1995 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1995, after years of silence, Le Chic de Molyneux was given new life. Perfumier Dominique Ropion took on the challenge of reformulating the fragrance using modern ingredients while preserving the essence of its original composition. The relaunch captured the heart of the fragrance's identity, reinterpreting it with contemporary notes that appealed to modern tastes while still staying true to its origins as a floral chypre for women.
Available in both Eau de Parfum and Parfum concentrations, this new version maintained its luxurious appeal. Although the ingredients were updated to meet new industry standards and preferences, the spirit of Le Chic endured—still an elegant, sophisticated blend of floral and chypre elements, a fragrance that retained its timeless charm across generations. The relaunch not only introduced Le Chic to a new audience but also re-established its presence as a symbol of refined femininity and grace in the world of fine fragrances.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
- Top notes: raspberry and apricot
- Middle notes: rose, peony
- Base notes: oakmoss, vanilla
Scent Profile:
As I first encounter the top notes of Le Chic de Molyneux, the scent opens with a burst of juicy raspberry and apricot. The raspberry is ripe and slightly tangy, immediately drawing attention with its vibrant sweetness. It evokes the lushness of late summer berries, their red, sun-warmed flesh releasing an intoxicating aroma. The apricot brings a velvety smoothness to the composition, its delicate sweetness mingling with a subtle, almost creamy, fruitiness. Together, these top notes are like the fresh indulgence of ripe fruits on a bright day, teasing with their fleeting presence before giving way to deeper layers.
The heart of the fragrance unveils an elegant bouquet of rose and peony. The rose is the star here, rich and opulent, exuding its classic floral beauty. It is a timeless and romantic note, full of velvety petals and a hint of dew. The scent of rose is full-bodied but never overwhelming—its softness balanced by the more delicate, fresh scent of peony. Peony adds a lightness and airiness, like the rustle of a floral breeze, its slightly green and dewy character bringing freshness to the rich floral heart. Together, the rose and peony create a sophisticated, feminine core that feels both luxurious and tender, blooming softly but with great presence.
As the fragrance settles into its base notes, the warmth of oakmoss and vanilla takes over. The oakmoss provides an earthy, slightly dry, and forest-like undertone, giving the fragrance its chypre character. There is a sense of groundedness here, as though walking through a shaded woodland, where the air is cool and the ground is soft beneath the feet. The oakmoss has a touch of bitterness, a contrast to the sweetness that came before, making the fragrance feel more mature and rooted.
Vanilla wraps everything in a subtle warmth, lending a creamy, comforting sweetness to the finish. It tempers the earthiness of the oakmoss with its soft, almost powdery quality, adding a smoothness that lingers on the skin. The vanilla is not cloying but delicate, giving the base a sensual, cozy depth that perfectly rounds out the fragrance. Together, oakmoss and vanilla create a lasting impression of warmth and refinement, a final whisper of Le Chic's elegant and timeless nature.
Bottle:
Comparison of 1928 Formula & 1995 Reformulation:
The 1995 reformulation of Le Chic de Molyneux by Dominique Ropion differs from the original 1928 creation by Jacques Vogel in several notable ways, while maintaining some key similarities that honor the heritage of the scent.
Similarities:
- Chypre Structure: Both versions are classified as chypre fragrances, meaning they share the core structure typical of this family—a balance between bright top notes, a floral heart, and a woody, mossy base. The presence of oakmoss in both formulations preserves the classic chypre foundation, anchoring both perfumes with that earthy, mossy depth that defines this genre.
- Fruity Elements: The fruity top notes remain a significant part of the fragrance DNA. In the original 1928 version, Jacques Vogel used a range of fruit notes, such as peach, cassis, and raspberry, which are echoed in the 1995 reformulation. Dominique Ropion simplified this fruity opening with prominent notes of raspberry and apricot, keeping the sweet and juicy essence of the original while modernizing and refining the top notes for contemporary tastes.
- Floral Heart: The heart of Le Chic retains its focus on florals, both in the original and the reformulated version. In Vogel’s version, the floral heart was rich and complex, including geranium, lily of the valley, gardenia, and rose. Ropion maintained this floral core but simplified it, focusing on rose and peony to give the fragrance a more streamlined, modern feel. The floral heart remains the central character in both compositions.
- Vanilla in the Base: Vanilla is present in both the original and the reformulated versions, contributing warmth and sweetness. In the original 1928 version, vanilla was just one of several rich, resinous base notes, while in the 1995 version, it plays a more prominent role, adding a smooth, modern sweetness that softens the chypre's characteristic dryness.
Differences:
- Complexity and Composition: The original 1928 version by Jacques Vogel was more intricate, with a multi-faceted composition. It included a wider array of ingredients, such as peach, cassis, bergamot, ylang ylang, and various floral and woody notes like sandalwood and patchouli. This complex layering gave the original a more opulent and nuanced feel, as was typical of perfumes from that era, designed to evolve and unfold over time on the skin.
- In contrast, Ropion’s 1995 reformulation is streamlined and simplified. The fruity top and floral heart remain, but the composition is pared down. This reflects a shift in perfumery in the late 20th century, where cleaner, more linear fragrances became popular. The 1995 version is more modern, focusing on fewer key notes to create a more straightforward, less ornate fragrance.
- Ingredients and Reformulation Changes: By 1995, many of the ingredients used in 1928 were either restricted or unavailable due to regulations, environmental concerns, or changes in raw material sourcing. Notably, oakmoss, a key chypre component, was significantly restricted due to allergen regulations, which likely altered the base of the 1995 reformulation. This would result in a softer, less mossy base compared to the richer, more robust oakmoss-laden base of the original.
- Leather and Spiciness: The original formulation included leather and spicy notes like caraway and cumin, which added a more complex, sensual, and somewhat masculine edge to the fragrance. These notes were omitted in the 1995 version, which leans more toward a modern, feminine interpretation, with the focus on the floral and fruity elements and a smoother base.
- Character and Longevity: The original Le Chic would have been heavier, with a richer and more opulent scent profile. It was designed for a time when perfumes were often worn as statements, meant to leave a lasting impression and evolve slowly throughout the day or evening. The 1995 reformulation, while still maintaining depth, would be lighter and more approachable, in line with the trend for fresher, more wearable scents for everyday use. The original would likely have had greater longevity and projection, while the reformulated version, with its softer composition, might sit closer to the skin.
Overall Comparison:
The 1928 Le Chic by Jacques Vogel was a complex, layered perfume that represented the luxurious, multi-dimensional style of early 20th-century perfumery, appealing to women who wanted a bold, elegant fragrance with a rich development over time. It featured a broad spectrum of notes, including a distinctive use of the Mousse de Saxe accord, adding depth and complexity.
The 1995 version by Dominique Ropion, while retaining the essence of Le Chic as a floral chypre, is a more modern, streamlined, and accessible interpretation. It focuses on fewer key notes—fruity top notes, a floral heart of rose and peony, and a soft oakmoss and vanilla base—making it more suitable for contemporary tastes, which favor simplicity and subtlety. Ropion's version honors the past but adapts Le Chic to a modern audience, with a lighter, more approachable scent profile.
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