Fete de Molyneux c1927

Fête de Molyneux, launched in 1927, carries a name filled with exuberance and joy. The word "Fête," meaning "celebration" or "festival" in French, conjures images of lively gatherings, elegant soirées, and a sense of occasion. It evokes emotions of joy, lightheartedness, and a sense of shared delight. The choice of such a name signals that this fragrance is meant to be more than just a scent—it is a celebration in and of itself, an olfactory experience that embodies the spirit of festivity. When interpreted in scent, "Fête" becomes a fragrance of brightness and vitality, with an airy quality that feels both elegant and joyous, something that heightens the wearer’s sense of occasion.

The original formula from 1927 was described as a soft, warm, and evanescent aldehydic white floral, designed to complement the sheer whiteness of a gown. This choice reflects the aesthetic of the time, when fashion and fragrance often went hand in hand. The soft aldehydes would have given Fête a sparkling, almost effervescent quality, while the white florals - jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom, lily of the valley, tuberose and gardenia—imparted a gentle, creamy sweetness. There’s a sense of elegance and luxury in the idea that the fragrance was meant to enhance the effect of a white gown, suggesting purity, sophistication, and femininity. For women of the 1920s, who were experiencing a newfound sense of freedom and modernity, a perfume like Fête would have been the perfect accessory for an evening out, something that made them feel both glamorous and carefree.

The 1920s was a decade marked by innovation and change, not only in fashion and culture but also in perfumery. The era saw the rise of bold, modern fragrances that broke away from the heavier, more traditional florals of previous decades. Iconic fragrances like Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Lanvin's Arpège (1927) introduced aldehydic notes that became a hallmark of modern perfumery. In this context, Fête de Molyneux aligned with the trends of its time, offering a lighter, more sparkling alternative to the heavier, more opulent fragrances of the pre-war period. While it followed the aldehydic trend, it set itself apart with its soft, white floral sweetness, evoking a sense of warmth and intimacy rather than starkness or boldness.

Fête would have appealed to the sophisticated, modern woman of the late 1920s, someone who wanted a fragrance that was both contemporary and romantic. It was a scent that captured the essence of a special occasion, an expression of femininity and elegance that fit perfectly within the evolving tastes and aesthetics of the Roaring Twenties.

c1930 ad

Fragrance Composition:

The original formula from 1927 was a soft, evanescent, warm and voluptuous aldehydic sweet white floral blend perfume and was "meant to be used with a white gown to heighten its feeling of sheer whiteness".

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, lily of the valley, magnolia
• Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, ylang ylang, gardenia, tuberose, rose, orris
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, ambergris, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

As I begin to experience Fête de Molyneux, the initial burst of aldehydes washes over me like a cool, crystalline breeze. It is clean, effervescent, and almost ethereal, immediately creating an atmosphere of lightness and purity. The aldehydes are sharp yet soft, evoking the brilliance of freshly laundered linens in the sun, mingling with the subtle citrus tang of bergamot and lemon. These bright, zesty notes lend a fleeting sharpness, reminiscent of the zest of a freshly peeled lemon, offering a refreshing clarity. 

Soon, neroli enters the scene, with its sweet, slightly honeyed bitterness, bringing a touch of green floral to balance the citrus. A faint suggestion of lily of the valley begins to emerge, delicate and almost transparent, like tiny white bells swaying in a gentle breeze, adding a tender innocence. Magnolia joins in, creamy yet light, adding a velvety softness to this luminous opening.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart notes blossom, enveloping me in a lush, voluptuous floral bouquet. Orange blossom stands at the forefront, with its sweet, honeyed warmth, like stepping into a sun-drenched garden. Its radiant floral sweetness is complemented by the heady, intoxicating jasmine, which is both sensual and refined, with a narcotic quality that pulls you deeper into the heart of the fragrance. 

Ylang-ylang adds a smooth, almost tropical richness, with creamy, slightly fruity undertones, enhancing the warmth and voluptuousness of the blend. The gardenia is lush and waxy, filling the air with its creamy floral aroma, while tuberose brings an opulent, slightly carnal note, adding to the seductive allure of the scent. There is a soft hint of orris root, powdery and elegant, with a velvety smoothness that gently rounds out the heart of the perfume, grounding the florals with its delicate, almost violet-like nuance. The rose is there too, soft and powdery, like a silk petal, adding a touch of romance and timeless femininity.

As the perfume begins to settle, the base notes emerge, creating a warm and sensual dry down that lingers delicately on the skin. Sandalwood, smooth and creamy, provides a rich, woody backdrop, its warm, slightly sweet aroma enveloping the florals like a soft embrace. Musk adds a sensual, almost skin-like warmth, enhancing the softness and depth of the composition. 

The sweet, comforting scent of vanilla intertwines with the musk, offering a creamy richness that is both cozy and elegant. Ambergris brings a subtle, salty warmth, adding a unique depth and complexity to the blend, while oakmoss introduces a faint, earthy undertone, grounding the perfume with its slightly green, forest-like quality. Together, these notes create a harmonious, luxurious finish, soft and lingering, like the memory of a delicate floral veil against the skin. 

The overall impression is one of sheer elegance, warmth, and sophistication, perfectly suited to enhance the pristine beauty of a white gown, making the wearer feel ethereal, graceful, and timeless.

Bottles:

Presented in a cylindrical crystal bottle with matching ground glass stopper, also in a Chanel styled, tall rectangular glass flacon with wide, flat rectangular stopper.  

1940s-1950s era bottle

 

Fluted  Bottles:

The fluted, cylindrical bottle below was used in the 1930s-1940s. Notice how the stopper continues the fluting.  Usually held the eau de cologne or toilet waters.

Circa 1930s-1940s. Bottle stands 4" tall. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fête de Molyneux was eventually discontinued, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear. Despite its initial release in 1927, it remained available and popular for decades, with evidence suggesting that it was still sold as late as 1951. This extended availability speaks to the fragrance's enduring appeal, capturing the imagination of women well into the mid-20th century.

By the 1950s, many perfumes launched in the 1920s had either been reformulated or faded into obscurity, but Fête seemed to retain its charm. Its soft, aldehydic floral composition continued to resonate with women who appreciated its timeless elegance and femininity. However, as the years progressed and fragrance trends shifted, focusing more on bolder, more modern scents, Fête—with its evanescent and delicate profile—may have eventually found itself less in demand.

While its discontinuation date remains a mystery, the fact that Fête was available for at least a quarter of a century highlights its significance in the world of perfumery. It was a scent that bridged eras, embodying the luxurious, refined spirit of the late 1920s while managing to maintain relevance in a rapidly changing post-war world.

1962 Reformulation & Reissue:

After its initial success, Fête de Molyneux may have quietly faded from the market for a time, only to be revived with new vigor in 1962. The scent was entrusted to the skilled perfumers at Roure, a prestigious fragrance house known for its expertise in blending classic compositions with modern sensibilities. This reformulation brought Fête into a new era, updating the fragrance with contemporary ingredients while preserving its essential character.

The 1962 reformulation of Fête de Molyneux was crafted by the talented perfumer Suzanne Mabereau. Her expertise brought a modern twist to the timeless elegance of the original scent, delicately balancing the fragrance's rich heritage with contemporary tastes. Mabereau's approach retained the soft, aldehydic floral heart of Fête, while incorporating updated ingredients that would resonate with the sensibilities of the 1960s woman.

In reimagining Fête, Mabereau infused the fragrance with her signature finesse, allowing the warm, voluptuous floral notes to shine through with an added sense of refinement and sophistication. Her contribution to the fragrance's revival breathed new life into the classic perfume, helping to cement its place in the modern perfume landscape while honoring its illustrious past.

The relaunch in 1962 saw Fête reintroduced in two forms: as a Parfum and an Eau de Toilette, offering versatility to its wearers. The choice to create both versions allowed for different intensities of the scent, appealing to women who might prefer the richness and longevity of the Parfum or the lighter, more casual nature of the Eau de Toilette.

The repackaging of Fête was also part of its reinvention. Modern design sensibilities were embraced to appeal to the 1960s consumer, yet the name carried with it the legacy of the original Fête, evoking the same sense of celebration and sophistication that had defined the scent in 1927. By combining tradition with modernity, Molyneux ensured that the relaunch of Fête would resonate with a new generation, while still captivating those who had cherished its earlier incarnation.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity green floral chypre fragrance for women.  It begins with a fruity top note, followed by a spicy, fruity floral heart, resting on a leathery, balsamic, mossy base.

Fete's green and slightly fruity top notes are lent by lavender from the Alps, rosemary from Spain and oakmoss from Yugoslavia. The fruity freshness comes from Italy's bergamot and tangerine. Its floral base is an intricate blend of jasmine, rose, orange blossom and lilac, backed by the sultry woody notes of cedar from Lebanon and from the majestic Atlas Mountains, precious sandalwood from Mysore and ylang ylang grown in the Bourbon Iles, while the warm animal notes of ambergris and musk give Fete its depth and lasting power.

• Top notes: galbanum, caraway, cumin, prune, peach, Italian bergamot, Italian tangerine, Brazilian rosewood
• Middle notes: Alpine lavender, Spanish rosemary, lilac, cabbage rose, rose de mai, orris root, jasmine, lilac, Bourbon Island ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, orange blossom
• Base notes: ambergris, musk, leather, benzoin, civet, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Lebanon cedar, Atlas cedar, Yugoslavian oakmoss, vanilla

A 1968 advertisement read :

“Wonderfully woman, she knows what such an evening has its fragrance: heady with fresh, deep witty, tenacious with discretion ...  Fete de Molyneux “

Scent Profile:

As I first encounter Fête de Molyneux, its vibrant and complex top notes unfold, beginning with a sharp and verdant burst of galbanum. This green resin, earthy and fresh, evokes the sensation of crushed leaves underfoot, grounding the fruity elements that follow. Caraway and cumin add an unexpected spice, lending warmth and intrigue. 

A lush, juicy sweetness emerges from ripe prunes and peaches, their depth balanced by the zesty brightness of Italian bergamot and tangerine. The citrus fruits sparkle, their tangy, sun-soaked aroma intermingling with the woodiness of Brazilian rosewood, offering a lively yet sophisticated introduction to the fragrance.

The heart of Fête unveils a rich, floral bouquet, both opulent and deeply evocative. The herbal accents of Alpine lavender and Spanish rosemary weave through the soft, powdery lilac and the voluptuous cabbage rose. These floral elements are layered with a distinct texture, each bloom resonating with its own personality. 

The rose de mai, delicate and pure, mingles with jasmine’s creamy, almost intoxicating sweetness. Ylang-ylang from the Bourbon Isles adds an exotic touch, its rich, slightly spicy scent elevating the florals. Orris root offers a velvety, earthy undertone, anchoring the flowers, while the bright, citrusy essence of orange blossom provides a luminous counterpoint. Together, these notes create a floral heart that is both spicy and fruity, swirling with complexity.

As the fragrance settles, Fête reveals a sultry, intoxicating base that exudes warmth and sensuality. Ambergris and musk form the foundation, their animalic depth rich and long-lasting. Leather notes add a tactile softness, evoking the scent of well-worn luxury. The balsamic sweetness of benzoin mingles with the civet’s slightly feral touch, creating an alluring, primal warmth. 

Rich sandalwood from Mysore brings a creamy, soft woodiness, harmonized by the smoky cedar from both Lebanon and the Atlas Mountains. The base is completed by Yugoslavian oakmoss, its earthy, mossy character imparting a sense of damp forest floor, while the smooth sweetness of vanilla lingers subtly in the background. The interplay of these elements provides Fête with an irresistible depth and complexity, a fragrance that is both timeless and deeply sensual.

Bottles:

In 1962, Fête de Molyneux was relaunched in a stunning, modern interpretation that reflected both the elegance of the fragrance and the spirit of the time. The bottle, designed by renowned sculptor Serge Mansau, was a masterpiece in itself. Slim and fluted, the crystal form exudes an air of refinement and sophistication, with delicate vertical grooves that catch and refract the light, giving the impression of fluid movement. The clean lines of the design encapsulate the elegance and femininity of the fragrance it holds, embodying the essence of French luxury.

At the top of the bottle sits a flared gold cap, a striking contrast to the sleek crystal body. The cap, with its smooth, flowing curves, adds a regal touch, reminiscent of a crown. Its gilded finish reflects the opulence associated with the Molyneux brand and enhances the overall luxurious feel of the presentation. The cap’s broad, flared design also echoes the fragrance’s bold, yet graceful composition, making it as much a sculptural object as a functional piece.

This crystal masterpiece was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, one of the most prestigious glassmakers in France, known for crafting exquisite perfume bottles for high-end houses. The collaboration between Mansau and Pochet et du Courval resulted in a bottle that was not only a vessel for Fête de Molyneux, but a work of art in its own right, reflecting the timeless allure of the fragrance it encases. This presentation was as much about visual and tactile appeal as it was about the fragrance itself, making it a true collector’s item and a symbol of luxury.

This Parfum bottle was available in the following sizes:

• 2ml miniature bottle stands 1.25" tall.
• Ref. # 1533 - 0.25 oz Parfum bottle stands 5" tall
• Ref. # 1534 - 0.5 oz Parfum bottle stands 5.5" tall
• Ref. # 1535 - 1 oz Parfum bottle stands 6" tall
• Ref. # 1536 - 2 oz Parfum bottle stands 7" tall

Flacon de Sac - Parfum in Medallion Bottle:

This small purse bottle is made up of frosted glass and is disk-shaped. It was molded with flowers reminiscent of the tops of the caps. I have dubbed it the "medallion" bottle. This bottle holds just 1/6 oz of Parfum.

• Ref. # 1532 -1/6 oz Parfum Splash, bottle measures approximately 2 3/8" tall.

Flacon de Sac - Refillable Goldtone Parfum Spray:

This gold tone purse spray bottle is refillable and holds 0.25 oz of Parfum. Bottle measures 3.25" long.

• Ref. # 1572 - 0.25 oz Parfum Spray
• Ref # 1574 - 0.25 oz Parfum Spray Refill

Eau de Toilette:

• miniature bottle with either gold or white plastic cap, bottle stands 1.65" tall
• 1 oz EDT Splash
• Ref # 2561 - 2 oz EDT Splash
• 3.5 oz EDT Splash
• 7.5 oz EDT Splash bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz EDT Spray

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fête de Molyneux, though discontinued for many years, remains a sought-after fragrance among collectors and enthusiasts. Despite its absence from modern perfumery counters, both the parfum and eau de toilette versions can still be found online, often through vintage fragrance dealers and specialized marketplaces. This enduring demand speaks to the lasting impact of Fête, which continues to captivate with its timeless blend of fruity, floral, and chypre notes.

The rarity of Fête only adds to its allure. Many of the bottles available today date back decades, often still housed in their original packaging or elegant fluted crystal bottles designed by Serge Mansau. Over time, these bottles have become cherished treasures, appealing not only to those who remember the fragrance fondly but also to new collectors who are drawn to its history and the prestige associated with the Molyneux name.

The fragrance, while still recognizable in its vintage form, may vary slightly due to age, as natural ingredients evolve over time. However, this aging can often enhance its complexity, adding depth and richness to the already intricate layers of scent. The parfum, with its higher concentration, tends to retain more of its original character, offering a stronger and longer-lasting impression compared to the lighter eau de toilette. For lovers of classic perfumery, finding a bottle of Fête online is like uncovering a piece of fragrance history, with each spritz offering a nostalgic journey back to the elegance and glamour of mid-20th century French perfumery.