In 1927, Molyneux launched Vogue, a name chosen deliberately to resonate with the fashion-forward sensibilities of the time. The word “vogue” is of French origin, meaning "style" or "fashion," embodying the essence of what is popular or current in taste and culture. It evokes images of elegance, sophistication, and the ever-changing world of high fashion. Vogue was meant to align with this dynamic energy, inviting women to embrace modernity, elegance, and the forward march of style. By choosing such a name, Molyneux positioned the perfume as more than just a fragrance—it became a reflection of what it meant to be in step with the latest trends, aligning with the cutting-edge world of couture.
The emotions associated with the word Vogue evoke a sense of chic exclusivity, high culture, and the allure of remaining relevant in an evolving world. The scent itself, classified as a floral bouquet fragrance, would likely be interpreted as a sensory translation of the modern woman's desire to embody elegance and refinement. Women wearing Vogue would be reminded of the glamorous world of fashion, the freedom of self-expression, and the importance of staying connected to the contemporary styles of the time. As a floral bouquet, the fragrance would present a lush, rich tapestry of blooms—each note combining to create an aura of effortless charm and refined grace.
Women of the 1920s would have responded to a perfume called Vogue as a reflection of the excitement of the post-war era. The period saw women gaining more independence, socially and economically, with the emergence of the flapper culture symbolizing freedom and a break from Victorian restrictions. Perfume, much like fashion, was an extension of one's personality and status. A fragrance like Vogue would have been interpreted as a statement of modernity, confidence, and sophistication. It would appeal to the women who were keen to embrace a more liberated, fashionable lifestyle, mirroring the way they engaged with the new silhouettes, shorter hemlines, and bold makeup trends of the era.
The time period in which Vogue was launched—1927—was marked by a shift towards modernist design and cultural exploration. Following the trauma of World War I, the 1920s were an era of transformation, where art, fashion, and society were driven by the desire for innovation. In Paris, Molyneux himself was a key player in this movement, recognized for his modernist designs that combined refinement with understated elegance. His designs appealed to women who wanted to be culturally advanced yet effortlessly stylish, a principle that no doubt extended to his fragrance line. In this context, Vogue would have been seen as a progressive fragrance for the forward-thinking woman, one who valued sophistication with a touch of daring.
Ultimately, Molyneux’s Vogue reflects not just the fashion of the time, but a broader cultural shift toward modernity, individualism, and the dynamic pace of change. It was a fragrance designed for the modern woman who embraced life on the cutting edge of style, making a statement not only through her wardrobe but through the scents that defined her identity.
c1930 ad
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral bouquet fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, lily of the valley and lilac
- Middle notes: Bourbon Island ylang ylang, tuberose, rose, jasmine
- Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, musk, galbanum, cedar, Tyrolean oakmoss, Singapore patchouli
Fashions of the Hour, 1927:
Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 115, 1931:
"Molyneux's latest coup is 'Vogue,' a delicious disturbing scent put up in a smart bottle in an orange suede case. $5 and $10. Callot has a new one too called Pour Ma Poupee $3.50 and $8.50 The fragrant Flair is $1, $1.75 and $3.75, the bottle. Marshall Field & Co."
Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 115, 1931:
"Les Parfums de Molyneux of Paris, have introduced a new creation in Vivre, a perfume of outstanding merit, which, as our illustration shows, is presented in a manner simple yet attractive. Vivre is available in four sizes. Other Molyneux products include Vogue, Le Numero Cinq, Fete and Le Chic de Molyneux. Full particulars of these and other Molyneux fines are obtainable from the sole sale-; agent and distributor for the United Kingdom. GE Davies, 58 Newman Street, Oxford Street, London."
Scent Profile:
As Vogue opens, the fragrance first greets the nose with the shimmering brightness of aldehydes, their slightly metallic, effervescent quality creating an immediate sense of light and air. These aldehydes lend a crisp, sparkling freshness that dances delicately in the air, like the first moments of dawn. Then, a soft breath of neroli rises—sweet and luminous, with an orange-blossom brightness that adds a tender, almost honeyed floral note. It carries the charm of the Mediterranean, evoking sun-drenched gardens.
As you inhale deeper, lily of the valley unfurls, offering its signature green, dewy, and pure scent. The fragrance here is gentle, reminding one of freshly bloomed flowers on a rainy morning. Lilac rounds out the top notes with its delicate powdery sweetness, reminiscent of pastel-colored blossoms that exude both innocence and a quiet elegance.
The heart of Vogue pulses with an exotic floral complexity. Bourbon Island ylang ylang emerges with its rich, creamy warmth, adding a luscious, almost banana-like floral sweetness that swirls with an intoxicating intensity. This is followed by tuberose, heady and narcotic, its fleshy petals enveloping the senses with a voluptuous depth. Tuberose’s rich, almost buttery nature feels like velvet on the skin, smooth and luxurious.
Rose, with its timeless and romantic character, brings a soft, velvety bloom—its essence both petal-soft and opulent, a scent that is simultaneously fresh and richly floral. Jasmine, sensual and a little wild, wraps the bouquet in a seductive veil, its indolic sweetness offering a heady, hypnotic undercurrent that lingers in the heart.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes unfold, grounding Vogue with a deeply textured and earthy richness. Mysore sandalwood introduces a smooth, creamy woodiness that is both warm and meditative, its milky quality adding a serene, calming depth. Musk weaves through the composition, bringing a soft, animalic warmth that feels intimate and comforting, like the scent of skin.
Galbanum offers an unexpected twist with its green, resinous sharpness, adding a slightly bitter and herbal facet that contrasts the sweetness of the florals. The cedar comes in, dry and slightly smoky, its clean woodiness balancing the richness of the heart. Tyrolean oakmoss adds a mossy, earthy texture, grounding the fragrance with a cool, forest-like depth, its slightly leathery character adding to the chypre quality of the scent.
Finally, Singapore patchouli brings a dark, earthy sweetness to the base, with its rich, slightly camphorous quality providing the fragrance with a lasting, deep sensuality.
Together, these ingredients create a complex and harmonious floral chypre fragrance, where each note blends seamlessly into the next, yet retains its distinct identity. Vogue captures a sophisticated elegance, like walking through a sunlit garden on a crisp morning, surrounded by the scent of blooming flowers and the grounding earth beneath your feet.
Bottle:
Cylindrical Baccarat Bottles:
Bottle made by Baccarat. Weil started using Baccarat model #524 as early as 1933. This bottle was also used by other perfumeries: Gabilla, Weil, and Jean Desprez.
Baccarat signed flacon, stands 3 1/2" tall. Photo from worthpoint.
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