Vivre by Molyneux c1931

Vivre by Molyneux, launched in 1931, carries a name that encapsulates a philosophy of life and vitality. The word "Vivre" translates to "live" in French, evoking a sense of joy, exuberance, and the celebration of existence. It suggests a spirited embrace of life, reflecting a desire to savor each moment. In the context of a fragrance, "Vivre" embodies the essence of living fully—its scent capturing the vibrancy and freshness of blooming flowers, inviting the wearer to experience the lively pleasures of nature.

Imagery associated with "Vivre" conjures visions of sun-drenched gardens filled with an array of colorful blooms, each petal exuding its unique fragrance, intermingling in a delightful bouquet. The concept of liveliness in scent translates into the vividness of its floral notes, which are enhanced by a touch of aldehydes—a trendy ingredient of the time that adds a sparkling quality, making the floral composition feel light and effervescent. Women wearing Vivre would be enveloped in an aura of freshness, reminiscent of a spring day where the air is alive with the fragrance of blossoming flowers.

The early 1930s were a time of optimism and renewal, as the world began to emerge from the shadows of the Great Depression. Women of this era sought to express their individuality and embrace the beauty around them. Vivre, with its lively garden flower scent, resonated with their desire for joy and celebration, making it an ideal companion for those looking to uplift their spirits and revel in the pleasures of life. The floral fragrance reflected the zeitgeist, encouraging women to indulge in the simple yet profound joy of being alive, making it a cherished addition to their beauty rituals.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance for women and described as "lively garden flowers" and it had a touch of aldehydes, which was popular at the time to make a floral perfume sparkle.

• Top notes: bergamot, jonquil, peony, lemon balm, lemon, aldehydes, orange, mimosa, narcissus, tea, neroli, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: peony, carnation, narcissus, gardenia, pepper, sage, wild thyme, cinnamon, magnolia, sweet pea, Basra jasmine, rose, syringa, hyacinth, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, musk, resins, incense, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, ambergris

 

Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 115, 1931:

"Les Parfums de Molyneux of Paris, have introduced a new creation in Vivre, a perfume of outstanding merit, which, as our illustration shows, is presented in a manner simple yet attractive. Vivre is available in four sizes. Other Molyneux products include Vogue, Le Numero Cinq, Fete and Le Chic de Molyneux. Full particulars of these and other Molyneux fines are obtainable from the sole sale-; agent and distributor for the United Kingdom. GE Davies, 58 Newman Street, Oxford Street, London."

Harper's Bazaar, 1931:

"At the lower left Molyneux's latest, "Vivre," a lively floral odor. Next Guerlain's "Liu" in its sable Chinese box, a master's creation. Above, the square bottle of Caron's "Bellodgia," modern and ingratiating."

 Rester Jeune, 1936:

"For a young blonde woman, rather sporty and dressed in white dresses, in piqué or in embroidered lawn, Charm de Molyneux will suit very well; both subtle and fresh, it is reminiscent of honeysuckle, hyacinth, mandarin; Vivre, warmer, with scents of mimosa, will do better for a brunette."

The New Yorker - Volume 25 - Page 80, 1949:

"Rue Royale. This famous French perfume is bottled and sealed in Paris. Now available in America's better stores. Magnificence $6 to $65- Fete $5 to $25. Vivre $5 to $25. Le Parfum Connu de Molyneux $6 to $52. MOLYNEUX PERFUME DIST. INC."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Vivre by Molyneux: That is to say, to live well, in joy and in beauty, by breathing in this tenacious and discreet perfume where the seringa succeeds the hyacinth with a good smell of chilly orange which heats up in the sun. Original and perfect blend supported by jasmine and rose that add a floral note to the radiance of blonde skin."

Combat, 1954: 

"Vivre de Molyneux: The syringas, whose white flowers have a smell close to those of the orange tree, the clematis and the sweet peas, the magnolias with opaline petals which smell of incense and the roses 'Glory of Dijon ,' which add to their fine smell of tea, a je ne sais quoi resembling pepper and cinnamon, let themselves be dominated, without this scent of Mediterranean spring, by the intoxicating smell of mimosa. Nose to the wind, I pick the explosion of nature in a peppy feast of birdies and the laughter of young women. Drunk butterflies stagger in the light."

Scent Profile:

Vivre envelops you in a vibrant tapestry of scents, beginning with its effervescent top notes that dance joyfully like the first rays of morning sunlight in a blossoming garden. As you take a deep breath, the bergamot presents its bright, citrusy aroma, reminiscent of sun-warmed oranges, instantly invigorating the senses with its crispness. 

This lively opening is beautifully complemented by the delicate yet intoxicating sweetness of jonquil, which evokes the image of golden blossoms swaying gently in a soft breeze. The peony, plush and full, adds a layer of richness, its petals soft against the skin, while the lemon balm injects a fresh, herbal twist that sharpens the overall bouquet.

As the fragrance unfolds, lemon bursts forth with its tangy brightness, harmonizing perfectly with the sparkling aldehydes that lend a sophisticated shimmer, transforming the scent into a dazzling experience. The addition of orange lends a sweet, sunny warmth, while mimosa contributes its soft, powdery essence, evoking the warmth of a sunlit afternoon. 

The intriguing narcissus introduces a touch of mystery, with its rich floral depth reminiscent of a secret garden, while the gentle, green notes of tea wrap around you like a warm embrace. Neroli bursts forth next, its radiant, floral profile interlacing with the crisp freshness of lily of the valley, culminating in an opening that feels both lively and effortlessly elegant.

As Vivre transitions into its heart, the fragrance reveals its lush peony, now fully in bloom, draping you in its romantic aura. This is beautifully juxtaposed with the carnation, which adds a spicy, clove-like edge, enhancing the bouquet's complexity. The return of narcissus amplifies this richness, while the creamy notes of gardenia envelop you in a sweet, velvety embrace. 

A hint of pepper sparks an unexpected warmth, grounding the floral delicacies with its spicy bite, while sage and wild thyme introduce a refreshing herbal touch, reminiscent of sun-drenched herbs gathered in a garden. Cinnamon adds a cozy depth, swirling through the heart like the warmth of a familiar hug, while the lush magnolia and sweet pea provide a romantic backdrop, creating a floral symphony that captivates the imagination. 

The ethereal Basra jasmine adds an exotic twist, and the delicate sweetness of rose weaves through the composition, further enhancing its floral depth. Syringa contributes a lilac-like sweetness, while hyacinth brings forth a fresh, green floral note that rounds out the bouquet with a soft touch of elegance. Orris, with its powdery richness, ties everything together, adding a silky smoothness that lingers.

In its base, Vivre settles into a warm, sensual embrace. The earthy, woody notes of patchouli create a foundation that is both grounding and alluring, while musk adds a layer of animalic warmth, enhancing the fragrance's seductive qualities. The complex resins and incense bring a mystical quality, creating an atmosphere that feels both intimate and ethereal. 

The soft, creamy notes of sandalwood contribute to the perfume's luxurious feel, wrapping you in its richness. Oakmoss adds an earthy, forest-like depth, while vetiver imparts a smoky, green edge, evoking the feeling of walking through a dew-kissed garden at dawn. Finally, ambergris rounds out the composition with its unique, marine warmth, creating a lingering trail that is both enchanting and unforgettable.

With its vivid imagery and complex scent profile, Vivre embodies the essence of a lively garden in full bloom, making it a perfect companion for the spirited women of the 1930s, capturing their vivacity and elegance in every spritz.

Bottles:

The original bottles for Vivre are the Chanel-styled square bottles with flat stoppers.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The journey of Vivre from its initial launch in 1931 to its eventual re-release in the early 1970s is a tale marked by both triumph and challenges. During World War II, the exportation of Vivre to the United States was halted, a common fate for many European perfumes during this tumultuous time. The constraints of war affected production and distribution, making it difficult for the luxury goods sector, including perfumeries, to maintain their markets abroad. Despite these challenges, remnants of Vivre were still accessible in the U.S.; old stock was sold as late as 1941, as evidenced by a newspaper advertisement from that year. This fleeting availability allowed American consumers a taste of the vivacious floral fragrance even amid the war’s constraints.

After the war, Vivre finally returned to American shores in 1948, reintroducing its delightful bouquet to a post-war audience eager for the elegance and charm of pre-war France. However, the perfume's original incarnation did not last long; it was discontinued in the 1960s, perhaps reflecting the shifting tastes in fragrance during that era as the perfume industry evolved.

In a resurgence of interest, Vivre was reformulated with modern ingredients by Max Gavarry under the International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) umbrella and relaunched in 1971. This reimagined version aimed to capture the spirit of the original while adapting to the preferences of a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts. The revival of Vivre in the early '70s not only rekindled nostalgia for the classic floral scent but also showcased the enduring legacy of Molyneux’s craftsmanship in a rapidly changing world of fragrance. This revival underscores the adaptability of perfumes and their ability to resonate across different periods, capturing the hearts of both new and old admirers alike.

1971 Reformulation & Reissue:

Vivre was introduced at the Party of the Century in Iran at Persepolis.

Jardin des Arts, 1971:

"Gérard-Yves Cahier, Director for France Perfume Molyneux surrounded by his Parisian team: Ms. Ancel, Roger Moreau, Jean-Pierre Boyer, France, Raymond van Dorselaere, Florence, presents Mr. Pierre Broc CEO and Jean-Marie Savage Creative Director and Advertising, Perfume bottle - Vivre Molyneux - specially made by Cristalleries Baccarat and banded with white gold, for His Imperial Majesty the Shanbanou of Iran for the annual charity event Bal des Petit Lits Blancs which benefits children with tuberculosis occurring at Persepolis, October 28, 1971."

Marketing, Volume 76, 1971:

"Paris perfume world debut in Toronto A NEW perfume by House of Molyneux, Paris, France, is making its world debut in Toronto, supported by public relations, p-o-p and sampling in department stores. Called Vivre, and priced between $8.75 for one sixth of an ounce to $60 for 2 ounces.The perfume is aimed at the upper income bracket."

New Guinness Book of Records - Page 88, 1972:

"The most expensive bottle of perfume sold is the outsize bottle of Vivre by Molyneux of Paris sold by Neiman Marcus of Dallas, Texas in 1972 for $4,500 (£1,875)."

  Playbill, 1981:

"Dare to do it all with Vivre created by Molyneux in Paris. Men love women who wear it. 1 oz., parfum, $115.00."

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a secret spices sprinkled over an aldehydic bittersweet orange top, followed by a rich, elegant tropical floral heart, resting on a sensual, leathery and aromatic woody base.  Sophisticated modern blend, Bulgarian rose, wild essence of fragrant woods, orange blossom, subtle spice.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bittersweet orange, tea blossom, coriander, leafy green note, coriander, angelica, bergamot, citrus zest
• Middle notes: Florentine iris, orange blossom, jasmine, hyacinth, Bourbon Island ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley,  Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: spices, leather, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver and myrrh.

Jardin des Arts, 1971:

"Vivre by Molyneux is not a simple scent. Its creators have long sought  rare notes which are new thrills. Tropical Plants gave their hidden sap, aromatic wood marry their wild flavor to the brilliant sweetness of Bulgarian rose, the romantic tenderness of the flower is united with bittersweet orange."

Country Life, 1972:

"Vivre, the new perfume from Molyneux, is based on an unusual formula of thick-leaved Mexican plants, jasmine, Bulgarian rose and a secret spice."

Mademoiselle, 1972:

"Vivre by Molyneux just might transport you. Vivre, it means to 'live'. It's a vital romantic scent made from a delicate blend of Bulgarian roses, tea flowers, orange blossoms, woods and spice. The perfume's captured in a flame-edged cut-glass flacon."

Bottles:

The 1971 reformulation of Vivre not only revived the beloved fragrance but also presented it in elegantly designed bottles crafted by the renowned designer Serge Mansau. These bottles are distinguished by their almost triangular shape, tapering gracefully downward to a truncated base. This unique design choice adds a modern flair while also reflecting a sense of sophistication, capturing the spirit of the early 1970s, a period characterized by innovation and artistic expression.

The base of each bottle is molded into a striking jagged "zig-zag" shape, creating a dynamic visual contrast that draws the eye. This zig-zag motif evokes movement and energy, resonating with the lively floral essence of the perfume within. Completing the ensemble is a matching glass stopper, which is an upended version of the bottle itself, elegantly proportioned in a smaller size. The zig-zag design continues to face upwards, echoing the bottle's theme and adding an additional layer of design continuity.

The bottle’s jagged edges evoke the visual rhythm of an electrocardiogram, a heartbeat captured in glass. This striking design element is not merely decorative; it resonates deeply with the name of the perfume, Vivre, which translates to "to live" in French. Just as an electrocardiogram reflects the life force and vitality of a heartbeat, the jagged contours of the bottle symbolize the pulse of life and the energetic spirit encapsulated within the fragrance.

This connection enhances the overall experience of Vivre, inviting wearers to embrace a sense of liveliness and vibrancy with every spritz. The design is a celebration of life itself, reflecting the floral and uplifting essence of the perfume. In this way, the bottle serves not only as a vessel for the fragrance but also as a powerful visual representation of the joy, vitality, and emotional resonance that the name Vivre embodies.

Produced in France, these bottles were crafted by esteemed glassmakers, including Pochet et du Courval and Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, known for their high-quality glass production and intricate designs. Additionally, a version of the Vivre bottle was manufactured by Baccarat, renowned for its crystal craftsmanship, under model #831. The combination of Mansau’s innovative design with the exceptional quality of these French glasshouses ensures that each bottle not only holds a fragrance but also serves as a stunning decorative piece. The result is a bottle that embodies both the beauty of the perfume and the artistry of its era, making it a cherished collectible for fragrance enthusiasts and design aficionados alike.

The Bulletin, 1973:

"VIVRE MOLYNEUX PARIS VIVRE - Vivre is French for "live", presented in a cut crystal bottle like a chip from a lightning bolt. More than a perfume. Vivre is a new experience. It is cool, yet warm. Sophisticated, yet ingenuous."

Fragrance Capacity for Parfum:

Have a 1970s-1980s Vivre parfum bottle but it doesn't state what the ounces/milliliters are? Use this guide to help you determine what your zig zaggy parfum splash bottle once held or now holds.

• Parfum 0.125 oz (1/8 oz) - (3.7ml) stands 
• Ref. #1412 - Parfum 0.17 oz (1/6 oz) - (5ml) stands 1.25" tall (3.17cm) mini bottle, this has a plastic stopper.
• Ref. #1413 - Parfum 0.25 oz (1/4 oz ) - (7.5ml) stands 2.4" tall (6cm)
• Ref. #1414 - Parfum 0.5 oz (1/2 oz) - (15ml) stands 3 1/8" tall (7.8cm)
• Ref. #1415 - Parfum 1.0 oz - (30ml) stands 3.5" tall (9cm)
• Ref. #1416 - Parfum 2.0 oz - (60ml) stands 4.5 " tall (11.4cm)
• Factice (advertising dummy bottle( stands 5.5" tall.

The Bulletin, Volume 95, Part 4, 1973:

"MOLYNEUX "VIVRE"

• PERFUME ATOMISER $14.95, Refill $12.95 
• EAU DE TOILETTE $9.50, $13.95, $21.00 
• EAU DE TOILETTE ATOMISER $14.95"

Product Marketing and Cosmetic & Fragrance Retailing, 1981:

"LES PARFUMS DE MOLYNEUX (HENRY CALISHERI) VIVRE

• PERFUME 0.125 oz (3.7ml)  $13.00
• PERFUME 0.17 oz (5ml) $21.00
• PERFUME 0.25 oz (7.5ml) $35.00
• PERFUME 0.5 oz (15ml) $60.00
• PERFUME 1.0 oz (30ml) $100.00
• PERFUME 2.0 oz (60ml) $165.00
• EAU DE TOILETTE NAT. SPRAY 1.5 oz (44ml) $20.00
• SOAP 3 CAKES 3.0 oz (88ml) $6.50
• FOAM BATH 6.8 oz (200ml) $16.50
• BODY LOTION 6.8 oz (200ml) $16.50."